Browning Pass HideAway, Port Hardy, Vancouver Island, BC, Canada

John and I flew to Vancouver, BC, Canada, and picked up a car on Sunday, August 5.  We took the ferry from Horseshoe Point to Departure Bay at Nanaimo where we stayed for the night and drove the next morning to Port Hardy where we met John deBoeck at IV's Pub/Restaurant next to the Quarterdeck Inn.  Then we took a two-hour ride on MV Striker V to the HideAway on Niegi Island, 15 miles north of Port Hardy.  The HideAway is situated ideally in Clam Cove just minutes from Browning Pass and some of the prime diving sites of the Queen Charlotte Straits including the North Wall, 7-Tree Island, HideAway Island, Frank’s Rock, Eagle Rock, SS Themis, Rock of Life, and more. 

The HideAway itself is a collection of very rustic buildings which have been converted into a combination of a “bunk house,” a couple of “cottages,” and a main house where home-cooked meals and family living are available.  The emphasis is on diving rather than superficial amenities.  No chocolates on the pillow, but the basics are provided, there is plenty of good food to support the cold water activity, and we were quite comfortable. 

            We were fortunate that there were not many other guests while we were there, so we had the opportunity to receive John’s full attention and the benefit of his extensive knowledge and experience.  John operated the MV Clavella liveaboard for years in the Vancouver Island area and knows the diving there intimately.  He has hosted magazine writers, professional photographers, and film crews for major documentary TV and movie programs for decades.  Any serious diver who wants to find the best place to dive and/or particular marine life seeks out John as the best guide.  He understands the tides and knows not only when to dive each site, but how: what depth, for how long, and in what direction. 

            In addition, we were blessed by meeting some of John’s regular friends who came in their own boats.  They were both divers, local to the area, and full of information, stories, and interesting experiences to share.  We thoroughly enjoyed meeting them and learning many new ideas and insights.  In fact, the HideAway, because of its situation in Clam Cove, attracted a number of traveling boaters which found shelter there.  The setting was tranquil and peaceful.  There was an abundance of wildlife: gulls, sea birds, eagles, otters, seals, and we even saw a wolf that came out on the beach within sight of the HideAway and looked at us while we took photos!  John said it was the first on the island in the last 27 years! 

            The diving was spectacular!  We saw the wide selection of Northwest marine specialties including rockfish of several kinds, sculpins, kelp fish, red Irish lord, sea stars and sun stars, anemones, crabs, all sorts of sponges, corals, shrimp, and the wonderful wolf eel!  I even had an encounter with a giant octopus when I tried to collect a few abalone shells in front of its den!  The brilliant colors all around were awesome.  And, the kelp provided convenient lines for descent and ascent. 

            We used Nitrox.  And, we took some underwater digital photos during the trip. Photo facilities were flexible with space as needed.  We spread out our gear in the bunk house.  This was a great trip for dry suit diving. We got to adjust our weights and figure out some techniques that would help us in the future.  We got plenty of good advice and assistance from veteran dry suit divers who had good ideas and took time and patience to help us.  We were able to dive on a flexible schedule with time to relax in between.  There were areas nearby for hiking, exploring, and observing nature.  In other words, Browning Pass HideAway offered more than just diving.  It was a place where one could chill out and take a break as well as enjoy as much diving as desired in some of the most beautiful and challenging dive sites in North America.  The Browning Pass HideAway definitely deserves a return trip.